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Don Ford

Don Ford

Wednesday, 04 January 2017 03:56

Lawn Tips

Lawn Care Tips

This section will provide some useful lawn maintenance tips:

Mowing Your Grass:

  • Raise the mower deck to cut the grass higher rather than cutting it short. You should cut at or on two to two and a half inches in height. The upper portion of the grass carries more nutrients to the roots helping the grass grow better. Thicker roots mean less weeds. Taller grass also keeps sun off from soil preserving the water content.
  • To prevent the problem of falling over grass blades, mow the lawn for a second time changing the angle of the affected area.
  • Cut only 1/3 portion of the grass at a time. Doing more than that isn’t good for the grass.
  •  Sharpening of mower blades regularly would prevent your lawn grass from tearing and splitting. This in turn would prevent the grass from infection and diseases. Besides, sharpening the blade would make it easier for you to mow quickly. 
  • Try not to mow the grass when it’s wet.
  • It’s important to change the lawn mower's oil at least once during the mowing season.
  • If possible, mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing. Altering the direction ensures the grass blades grow more Straight and don’t follow a set pattern.

Grass Clippings:

  • Grass clippings contain 10% nitrogen that is the main ingredient of fertilizers. Thus you can consider mulching those grass clippings to decompose and provide the necessary nitrogen for a better grass growth. Mulched grass clippings also provide shade to the soil and prevent weeds and seeds from germinating.
  • Ideally, the mulch layer should be approximately one to three inches deep. However, for ornamental plants, a one inch layer is sufficient enough. As the mulch starts decomposing add more to maintain the best depth.
  • Do not mulch right up to the base of trees and shrubs, as it could cause decay and injury. Leave a ring around the base of the tree or shrub.
  • A healthy mulch mixture can consist of shredded hardwood bark or cypress, pine needles, and pine bark pieces.


  • It is very important to keep the right pH balance of the soil of your lawn. A soil that is only slightly acidic to neutral is good for most turf grasses while weeds thrive on more acidic or alkaline soils.
  • Use a soil test kit to determine the pH level of your lawn soil. If your lawn has naturally acidic soil you may use lime or wood ash to neutralize it. It is advisable to aim at improving the pH balance gradually to the desired levels and should be done over a few applications.
  • Aerating your lawn at regular intervals is very important for the soil. This helps the soil and the roots to absorb air, water and nutrients. If your not shure of the pH balance of your soil than you should do a soil sample to determine the pH balance so the you can maintain it correctly.


Wednesday, 04 January 2017 03:54

Lawn Care FAQS

Frequently Asked Questions

This section would provide answers to most of your questions related to Lawn Care and Maintenance.

Q: How to protect a yard overrun with moles?
A: Opting for a ‘mole barrier’ is one of the best options to keep the moles from damaging the soil. If your lawn is placed near a wood or a field where moles are plentiful, burying sections of galvanized hardware cloth or aluminum sheathing to a depth of 24” with about 3 feet wide can take care of the problem to a larger extent. Ensure you leave about 6 inches exposed above the soil, and about 3 inches bent forward on the bottom (towards the source of the moles) to prevent moles from digging underneath.

Q: How do I protect my lawn from grubs?
A: Beneficial Nematodes can help you overcome this problem. These are microscopic, non-segmented worms that occur naturally in soil and are extremely easy to use. They are used as a formulation that needs to be mixed with water. The solution can be applied using a watering can; hose end, backpack, or pump sprayers; or through irrigation or misting systems. Make sure you release the formulation early in the morning or late afternoon when temperatures are cooler. Generally, 1 vial of Beneficial Nematodes will effectively treat approximately 900 sq. ft. of conventional garden rows. Make releases every 3-6 weeks or until infestation subsides. Nematodes can be stored in the refrigerator (do not freeze) for up to 2 months.

Q: How high the grass should be mowed?
A.: Mowing the grass at the highest setting on your mower is the best, if not at least 3 inches. Each time you mow, not more than 1/3 of the grass should be cut. However, there are exceptions as some warm season grasses, such as Bermuda centipede grows dense at lower mower settings.

Q. How do I water my lawn?
A.: Watering lawn should be done deeply but should not be frequented. It’s better to water the lawn at once rather than spreading the activity for a period of several days. The goal for watering the lawn should be 1’ per week.

Q.: Which one is a better option: mulching or bagging my clippings?
A: Mulching is better as it returns nutrients to the lawn along with organic matter besides retaining water. Occasionally it may be helpful to bag if you have an annual weed infestation, or the lawn grass is growing faster between mowing cycles.

Q: Does mulching contribute to thatching in any way?
A: No. Roots growing near the surface cause thatching whereas mulching discourages thatching by augmenting the decomposition process.

Q: How can I level a bumpy lawn?
A: Low spots can be filled with about a quarter inch layer of topsoil or sand. Gradually fill low spots to avoid suffocating the grass. Alternatively, you can lift the sod with a shovel; fill with topsoil or sand, and replace the sod to level your bumpy lawn.

Q: Is there a way to get rid of weeds?
A: By applying a pre-emergent herbicide (CGM for organic) prior to germination, you can prevent the annual weeds that grow from seed. Pre-emergent herbicide is also available for preventing perennial type broadleaf weeds. You can apply a post-emergent herbicide once the weeds appear or even pull the weeds by hand.

Q: Which of the aeration is better – core or spike?
A: Core aeration is preferred to spike aeration as it removes small cores of dirt to facilitate compaction. Spike aeration on the other hand will compress some types of soil and hinder the compaction process. But, spike aeration is helpful for sand type soils.

Q: Is it a good idea to over seed my lawn while still applying a pre-emergent for weeds?
A: Usually all pre emergents prevent germination of all types of seeds. However Tupersan (a new pre emergent), can be used at the time of seeding to prevent weed seed germination and allowing grass seed germination.

Q: How do I identify the type of Bermuda I have?
A: There are many different types of Bermuda, but they generally fall into 2 main categories: Hybrid and Common. The hybrid varieties include Midiron, Midfield, Midlawn, Tif varieties (Tifway-I, Tifway 419, Tifway-II, Tifgreen, Tifeagle), and Sunturf, which are all types of sodden Bermuda. Other varieties fall under the common category.

Q: Is there any set program for annual lawn maintenance?
A: Verify with your county extension for specific timing in your area.

  • Beginning of Spring – Pre-emergent application for Summer Annual Weeds.
  • Cultivating Season – Fertilize every 30-45 days with 1lb N per 1000 sq ft.
  • June & July – Core aerate to relieve compaction, if needed.
  • Early Fall – Pre-emergent application for Winter Annual Weeds.
  • As and when required – Post emergent weed control and fungus control.

Wednesday, 04 January 2017 03:47

8 Easy Tips for a Perfect Lawn

A nice, green lawn is a wonderful thing. Here's some simple lawn care tips to cultivating a terrific lawn.

1. Prevent weeds before they come up.

You can stop weeds from gaining a roothold in your lawn before they even germinate by using a pre-emergent herbicide. This type of product controls the dreaded crabgrass, as well as other hard-to-eliminate weeds, by stopping their seeds from sprouting in your lawn. Use a pre-emergent herbicide early in the spring.

Note: Watch the forsythia and lilac shrubs in your area. When the blooms start to fade and drop off the plant, it’s time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide.

2. Eliminate broadleaf weeds once they've sprouted.
Broadleaf weeds are the big weeds that are immediately obvious in your lawn: the bright-yellow faces of dandelions (and their scatter-in-the-wind seeds), white-flowering clover and big-leaf plantain are all pretty visible. To treat, apply granular weed control products. If there are just a few offenders, you can remove them by hand.

Note: Wait to apply until there is heavy morning dew. Why? Because weed-and-feed granules need moisture to stick to weed leaves—and a dewy morning provides that for you. You can also turn on lawn sprinklers for a half hour to get the same effect.
Note: Are you watering enough? Try the soup can test. Set an empty can next to your lawn sprinkler. When there is about ½ inch of water in the can, it’s time to turn off the sprinkler.

3. Mow high and frequently.
Mowing your lawn too short may seem like a time-saver, but this can damage your grass as well as allow weeds to take root. Keeping your lawn a bit taller results in healthier grass. The general rule of thumb is: Never cut off more than a third of the grass blade.

Note: Set your mower as high as it will go—up to 3 inches—and keep it there all summer.
4. Sharpen your mower blade.
A dull blade tears the grass, resulting in a ragged edge that makes the overall lawn look grayish brown. Sharpen the mower blade when it shows signs of wear—or at least once a mowing season.

Note:  The size of your lawn and the frequency of mowing will dictate how often you should sharpen your blade. Take a look at a grass blade after mowing. If it is shredded or frayed, it’s time to sharpen up.

 5. Water in the morning.

The best time to water your lawn is the early morning because the sun will help dry the grass. Nighttime watering can result in prolonged moisture on the blades, which can open the door to some diseases. It’s better to water less often but for prolonged periods. Just wetting down the grass isn’t watering the grass. You need to soak the lawn so the soil moisture penetrates down several inches.

Note: Are you watering enough? Try the soup can test. Set an empty soup can next to your lawn sprinkler. When there is about ½ inch of water in the can, it’s time to turn off the sprinkler.

 6. Feed your lawn.
What do lawns like to consume? Nitrogen is the most important nutrient - look for a mix of fast- and slow-release fertilizers that will green up your lawn quickly, then feed it over time. In the north, feed in fall and spring. In the south, feed in spring and summer. Don’t feed dormant grass (drought can cause grass to go dormant in summer) because it can’t take in nutrients. 

Note: More is not better. If you put too much nitrogen on your lawn, you’ll burn it. Read the label and follow the application directions to a T.

7. Train Spot.
If you have a dog that spends any time in your yard, your lawn will show it. Large yellow and dead spots in your lawn will be giveaways. The nitrogen in dog urine is the culprit. Encourage your dog to use just one spot in the yard. Make a gravel or mulch area where your dog can do his business without spotting the lawn.

Note: Yard-train your dog in the same way you house-trained him. Walk him out to the area you want him to use and use treats to reward good behavior.

8. Reseed sparse lawns.
If your lawn is a little thin in areas, you can seed over the area to help lush it up. Fall is the ideal time to reseed cool-season grasses. Plant warm-season grasses in late spring.
Note: Make sure you don't apply a pre-emergent herbicide at the same time you plant seed; it will stop your grass seedlings from growing.

Don's Lawn and Maintenance Service is a Nashville lawn care service for all your lawn care needs.


Wednesday, 04 January 2017 03:11

How to replace Doors

This article details how to replace doors; specifically, the kind that are hung on hinges.

Tools needed for door replacement:
  • Pry bar
  • Flat head screw driver
  • Philips head screw driver
  • Screws
  • Hammer
  • Drill, preferably battery operated
  • Drill bits
  • Tape measure
First, measure the door width and length. Go to your local hardware store and, if needed, ask the clerk to help you find the right sized door. Get some door shims and some screws of appropriate size. Measure the new door to make sure it is the right size.

Carefully remove the outer trim. Then, take the door off the hinge. Use the hammer and screwdriver to tap the pins out of the hinges (note: take the bottom pin out first). After you have removed the trim and door, you can see that the door frame is attached by screws or nails (usually nails). Carefully pry the frame outward, but don't brace the pry bar against the drywall, as it will break. Use the inner frame to pry against. After your door frame has been removed, clean up any derbis that has accumulated.

The next step will require two people, or some sort of clamping device that holds the door in place. Put your new door into place and test its fit and alignment (note: check top, bottom,and sides. Dont take the holder out of the door knob place just yet). After you make sure it lines up, make sure you don't need any shims some do some dont check to make sure that all the frame is good then hold in place firmly and take out you holder in the door knob check to see that door opens and closes good you may need to adjust up or down or  side to side.

Next: Assuming you have done a great job in the line up prossess than you can now attach the door to the frame by using some 3" screws  needed 4 to 6 one in top both sides one in the middle both sides and one in the bottom both sides.
( Note: some times you have to use the tightness of your screws to line up the door after every screw check to see if the door still opens and closes smoothly it not than readjust till it does.
After all that is done than you can carefully put you trim back on in the same place it came from .
Your Done .
Wednesday, 04 January 2017 03:09

How to Sharpen LawnMower Blades

How to sharpen your lawnmower blades.

 Jack the lawnmower up so you can remove the blades. Once you have the blades off, take a grinder and grind on a 30 to 45 degree angle on both ends of the blade dont  go past the edge that you can see has been beveled already. Realize that you dont want to grind too much off so go a litte at a time so you dont go to far.This will take some time to master cause you want to take the same amount off both sides of the blade or it will be unbalanced and cause a vibration which will cause other parts to wear prematurally.  After ginding on them some check with your finger to see if its sharp or not, now you dont want a knife edge but you do want it to be somewhat sharp to the touch. The key here is to obtain an edge that will be sharp but not to sharp so that your blades are too thin on the edges.   Now you know the basics of sharpening your Lawnmower blades


Wednesday, 04 January 2017 03:01

Plumbing Questions

  •                 Q:    Can I prevent drains from clogging?
                A:  Make sure you don’t rinse fats or cooking oils down the kitchen sink. Liquid fats eventually solidify in the cold pipes and create clogs. You can also fit your kitchen and shower drains with a strainer that stops soap, hair, and other items from going down the drain.                                                                                                                                                            Q:   My water heater doesn’t work the way it used to a few years ago. What is wrong?                                                            A:   Old water heaters start accumulating sediment and lime deposits. If these deposits are not removed periodically, the sediment will block. Drain water from the tank. This helps in removing the sediment. Also, get your water heater checked by an experienced plumber every 2 years.
  •         Q:   Why is the water pressure low in my home and how can I rectify it?
 Low water pressure can be caused due to several reasons. It could be due to a partially closed valve, a crimped water line or rusty pipes. You should call an experienced plumber who can identify the real cause and offer you feasible options.
  •  What causes a faucet to drip?
When faucets are used over years, they start dripping. In most cases, the faucets need to be repaired or replaced. The seals in the faucet go bad after several years of use. Sometimes you can replace just the seals in some models to rectify the problem. Simply call a plumber or HandyMan who can install a good quality faucet in your home.
  •  Are there any hidden service costs?
 We charge upfront for any type of plumbing services. We inform our customers about the costs associated with installation or repairing jobs before we take the job.
  •  Is it important to turn off the water connection of the entire house at the time of plumbing repair?
 Yes, because there could be chances of water leaking into other areas of the house.
Wednesday, 04 January 2017 02:58

Lawn Mower Frequently Asked Questions

 This section will answer some of your question's on your lawn mower.
  • Q: Why is My lawn mower hard to start:
    A:  There are several common reasons why a lawn mower might be hard to start: 1) low oil pressure, 2) a fowled spark plug, 3) a flooded cylinder, 4) a clogged fuel line, and 5) a clogged air intake. Check the oil first to make sure the reservoir is full. If the oil level is okay, remove the spark plug to check it for fowling. If the plug is black or burnt then it needs to be replaced. If the spark plug is wet, the cylinder might be flooded with gas (smell test the spark plug for gas odor). Dry it off and let the gas evaporate out of the cylinder. If the plug is fowled, you can try cleaning the spark plug with a wire brush, but this will be just a temporary fix. You should replace the spark plug every season depending how often you use your mower. Some people cut their grass every week and some every two weeks. Many mowers have a gasoline filter that can become clogged. Check the filter by letting gas flow through it in the correct direction. Some gas filters can be temporarily fixed by running gas or air through them in a reverse flow direction, but I recommend changing rather than attempting to fix them. Finally, check the air filter.  Many mowers have a very simple air filter (essentially a fine mesh covering the carburator intake).  Others have more elaborate air filtration systems.  Check your owners manual for specific information about your model.
  •  Q: Why won't my mower start?
  •  Q: My mower cranks but won't start (spark plug not firing). What should I check to find out why?
    A: First you should check the fuel tank and fill if needed. If the gas is more than three months old it could be bad. Assuming the gas is good and the mower still won't start, take the spark plug out and check for fowling. If it's black or burnt or has a lot of residue on it, it's time to replace it. If it still won't start, the coil might be bad. Testing and replacing a coil is a bit more involved than the other likely solutions, so you might need to find a qualified shop or handyman to replace it.
  • Q: I let my mower sit in the garage all winter. Why won't it start ?
     A: This is a very common problem. In general, you should winterize your mower. To do so, first  clean your mower very well before putting it up for the winter. You should also go ahead and change the oil and grease it. Then drain the fuel out of your mower. If this is not possible then you should go to your local hardware store and get some fuel stabilizer so your fuel won't go bad.  Wither or not you have to use the fuel stabilizer, I suggest that you start your mower and let it run for about thirty minutes every month during the winter to charge the battery. If drained, simply add enough fuel so the mower will run out in about thirty minutes or so. Running a mower stored with stabilized fuel also helps to run the old fuel out of the carburator, so you keep fresh fuel in bowl of the carburetor. If you haven't winterized your mower, there is a good chance you will have to rebuild your carburetor much sooner than necessary. 
  •  Q: My mower starts and runs on choke only. Why?
    A: This is another common problem, caused by bad gas or letting your mower sit for too long without starting it.  Change the gas and check the spark plug for fowling. The problem is also caused by a dirty air filter or debris in the carburetor. The fix could be as simple and cheap as replacing the air filter or as expensive as rebuilding or replacing the carburator.   


Wednesday, 04 January 2017 02:53

Carpet Cleaning Tips

                                 This section will answer some Questions about Carpet Cleaning.

      Some times your carpet, & furniture gets dirty or soiled from use and it needs cleaning from time to time. Or if you're like me you have an oops every now and then.
    You ask, what can I do to get this carpet clean and keep it that way?
   Well, friends, this is what I know about cleaning your carpet.
Your carpet is woven and has a backing on it so that way it can breeth from the pad to the carpet so when you spill something  it goes in deep if you don't get it up quickly it goes all the way to the pad and then you got a stain that just won't go away no matter what you do or use to clean it, i know cause i'v had lots of oops especialy with kid's lol. The best way to clean your carpet is to use a non residue cleaner. If you have to hire some one to clean it they need to use a non residue cleaner also so the is no residue or hardness left after the job is done.

   I would'nt  hire a steam cleaner to clean my carpet i would use a company that uses the dry foam method only.
  Here is why i say this, if your capet is woven and has a backing that has holes in it where does all that water go? To the pad where else can it go? So with that said i have a question for you. Can i put your shirt on the floor and inject it with water after i do that do you think i can vacume that water out of that shirt?  Its not likely to happen there is no vacume that is stong enough to get that shirt dry and left to dry normally it will take several hours for it to dry. Now i have another question for you. If it takes more than one hour to dry what starts to grow in that shirt or carpet or Pad? MOLD THAT RIGHT MOLD.
  Mold starts to build and form in the first hour that something is left wet It takes several hours to form completly but who wants to take that chance see it what you can't see that can be worse than than the fix.

Wednesday, 04 January 2017 02:15

How to Install a Water Heater

This article covers how to install a water heater, specifically the standard "barrel style" electric water heater. Owing to the dangers of working with gas lines, gas water heaters should generally be installed by professionals, so I won't cover their installation here. Of course many of the procedures are the same, but I recommend that you not attempt to connect your own gas water heater unless you already have experience (but then you wouldn't need to consult this guide).

Electric water heater installation is actually quite easy if you know what to do step by step, so let's get started.

Here is a list of tools and materials you will need:Tools for installing an electric water heater
  • Hacksaw or reciprocating saw (to cut pipe) (A)
  • Pipe reamer (to dress the cut pipe ends) (B)
  • Gloves (for handling pipe)
  • Pipe wrench (C)
  • Pliers (D)
  • Channel locks (E)
  • Gas torch (F)
  • Silver solder (made for welding copper pipes) (G)
  • Flux and flux brush (used to make solder flow) (H)
  • Fine (600 grit) sand paper or emery cloth (to dress the pipe ends and fittings--important) (I)
  • Copper pipe and fittings (enough to do the entire job) (J)
  • Alternative: SharkBite fittings (an easy but more expensive alternative to regular copper fittings)
  • Wire cutters (K)
  • Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head)
  • Wire nuts
  • Tape measure
  • Garden hose
  • you might be required to separately purchase threaded fittings for your water heater and if so you'll need teflon tape to seal them.
Once you have your tools and supplies on hand you can begin the work.Drain water heater

Step 1. Turn off the water and power to the water heater.  The power should be turned off at the breaker box (there are often two breaker boxes in a house--one inside and one outside. If you don't see the breaker in one, check the other)   The water inlet valve will orient you to the in-flow and out-flow pipes (if, by chance, there is no valve, your water heater was installed by an amateur and you should install a valve).

Step 2. Drain the water heater by attaching a hose to the drain valve (see picture) and opening the valve with a screwdriver.

Step 3. When the water is drained completely, saw through the pipes (see photo).Saw through the pipes of your water heater A reciprocating saw comes in real handy here, but a hack saw will do the job. Important: Be sure to leave enough pipe on the wall side to attach a pipe fitting (coupling or elbow) to the pipe. Note: While it is possible to un-solder pipes from fittings by heating them with a torch, once a pipe or fitting has been soldered once, it is almost impossible to get a good solder joint at the same place again (heating alters the properties of the copper pipe). Therefore, you should use new fittings and pipe to connect to a cleanly cut portion of the existing pipework.

Step 4. Disconnect the power. There is a small panel where the electrical wires go into the water heater. Remove the screws that fasten the panel. Then detach the wires, making sure to note the colors of the wires and to which terminal each is connected.

Step 5. Remove the old water heater by lifting it out of the pan.  With all the water drained it can easily be handled and moved, but you might need to ask for assistance depending on your strength and the space you have to work in. A dolly comes in handy for moving the water heater, but it should be light enough for two people to carry. At this point, you should examine your pan to make sure that it doesn't leak. Clean up the area and dry up any spilled water or wetness in the pan.
Water heater installation--sandin pipes
Step 6. Place the new water heater in the space where the old one was. Center it in the pan as best you can. There can be a lot of variation in water heaters, so chances are the pipework will be a bit different from before. Make sure that you orient the inlet and outlet correctly, such that your plumbing will connect to the proper port on the water heater.

Step 7. Start your pipe installation. Measure as you go and be sure not to cut pipes too short. To prepare the pipes for installation, take measurements to determine the needed pipe lengths and also determine where the angles will be. As you cut the pipe, dress the ends with a pipe reamer to remove burrs and irregularities. Important: Thoroughly sand the pipe ends (see photos) and the insides of the fittings. If the pipes and fittings are not sanded properly, the solder won't weld them together well.

Below I discuss an easy alternative to copper pipe soldering, but I'll cover soldering here because it is the least expensive and most common means of plumbing your water heater.

Step 8. Solder the pipes together. Start at the water heater and work toward the house pipes. Soldering is not particularly difficult as long as you follow some basic procedures:
(see the video for a demonstration)
    • Before fitting them together, coat the joints (inside the coupling and outside on the pipe) with flux using the acid brush.Water heater installation - heating pipe
    • Fit the joints together and position them. The pipe that goes into the top of the water heater can be soldered first (remove the threaded fitting before soldering), but it is best to wait to solder the rest of the joints until all of them have been assembled. That way you are certain that the pipes are well configured. 
    • When the pipes and fittings are in their final configuration (with flux in each joint), you can begin to solder.
    • Heat the joint to be soldered well.  It should be uniformly hot enough to allow the solder to run quickly into the joint. Be careful, though, not to overheat the joint such that the flux boils away completely.  If this happens, the solder won't penetrate into the joint.
  Dim lights Embed
  • While heating the joint with a propane torch in one hand, use the other hand to deliver solder to the joint. Heat from one side while delivering the solder to the other side of the pipe,  Silver solder comes in a spool and you can bend a portion of it into a stick configuration. Touch the solder to the joint while flaming the joint. The solder should melt rapidly against the hot copper and quickly run around and into the joint. Solder will even wick up into joints against gravity--the flux helps it do so. If you perform the soldering operation right, you need not go all the way around the joint with the stick of solder--it will run around on its own.
  • Let the joint cool and examine it to see that the solder ran all the way around.
Step 9. When all of the joints have been soldered and the joints are cooled (before connecting the electricity) open the water valve to test your plumbing. Look for water dripping from the inlet side. Keep the house water faucets turned off and feel for air escaping from the outlet pipes.  As water fills the tank, pressure will build up and push air into the outlet pipes. The flow of air will become audible, but it can be felt escaping before you can hear it. If there are no leaks, the pipe joints are sealed. Turn the water off and complete the next step.

Step 10. Connect the electricity. Follow the instructions that came with your water heater. After the electricity is connected and the covering panel is replaced, turn on the power and go immediately to the next step.

Step 11. You may now open some hot water faucets in the house and let the hot water heater fill the rest of the way. Keep an eye on the plumbing to make sure that there are no leaks.
Your installation is now complete.Shark Bites used in water heater installation Chances are that the worst part of the job was soldering the joints. Fortunately, there is another way to securely fit pipes together. Most hardware stores now carry solderless fittings such as SharkBites or Gator Bites. These joints are quite good and easy to install. They also look nice and help you avoid the mess from flux and dripping solder. To demonstrate the difference in the two methods, I installed Shark Bites on one pipe and soldered the other side. As you can see, the Shark Bites yield a neater appearance. There's really nothing to installing these innovative joints--just press them by hand on to the pipes (you should still smooth the pipe ends with sandpaper). One major advantage to SharkBites or similar products is that they can be removed and reused. This alone justifies the extra cost.


Wednesday, 04 January 2017 02:04

Electrical Safety Tips

According to the Consumer Products Safety Commission, more than 450,000 residential fires occur every year. One third are due to problems in a home’s electrical system.
Some of the causes of electric fires:
Old wiring
Misuse of extension cords
Faulty electrical appliances
Overuse of electricity, especially around Christmas
Short circuit and poor maintenance
Electrical wiring problems cause twice as many fires as faulty electrical appliances.

The following safety measures can reduce the risk of an electrical fire:
  • If your house is very old, hire a licensed and competent electrician to have the entire wiring updated.
  • Use extension cords sensibly – never run the cords under rugs or in places where they run the risk of being crushed, stepped on or pulled.
  • Ensure not to overload outlets. If you feel the need to add more outlets, hire an electrician.
  • Have your electric circuits checked to ensure they are not overloaded.
  • Make sure to unplug electrical appliances such as toasters, coffee makers and microwave ovens when not in use.
  • When doing holiday decorations, ensure a safe environment by monitoring circuits to check if they are overloaded.
Safety Tips for Your Home:
  • Use the right light bulbs in all lamps and light fixtures.
  • Don’t tie or knot cords. Also make sure the furniture doesn’t sit on cords.
  • Unplug toaster ovens, coffee makers and hair dryers and other small appliances after using them.
  • The electrical outlet in the bathroom should have a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI.)This protects you and your loved ones from a dangerous shock when water and electricity come together. Ask your electrician to install a GFCI at your home.
  • My oulet don't work? 
  • Check the appliance your trying to use in another oulet if it work than its  the plug that could be bad, plugs run in series and some times one won't work than some times if one don't work than none on that wall or room won't work. DON'T  TRY TO FIX YOURSELF. Call a local electrician or a qualified handy man to fix.
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Spring Cleaning

Cleaning up your property and landscape for spring is a big job. Don the Lawn Man can handle it for you! We are landscaping and lawn care service experts in Nashville and the surrounding area, with programs catered to both residential and commercial properties. Let us take care of your spring landscaping clean up so that you can enjoy a beautiful, season-ready property without the hassle!

Services include but are not limited to clearing away leaves and branches, re-edging and cleaning garden and flower beds, redefining the borders of the lawn, edging, pruning and trimming, lawn mowing, weedeating and more!

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